Leisure

All That Glitters Might Be Gold

Issue 44

Newcastle's Grey Street received a further boost recently with the opening of The Muddler - a decidedly opulent new restaurant serving pan-Asian cuisine.

Its menu offers a true taste of flavours from afar; a mix of small plates, sushi, tempura, dimsum and chargrilled robatta all for diners’ delectation.

Of course, with a name like The Muddler, it’s no surprise that the restaurant also boasts an inventive cocktail menu brimming with house specialities (see the Zen Garden, an English garden classic given an Asian twist) and all of your old favourites. I visited on a Friday lunchtime with my son Jack and found the restaurant doing brisk business – no sign of the January lull here.

The former Osaka site has witnessed a stunning revamp. Muted gold lighting provides a twinkling backdrop whilst dark chocolate shades and walnut surfaces combine to create a rich aesthetic which feels very 1920’s Gatsby-inspired. Most impressive of all are some cosy seating alcoves bathed in a brilliant gold.

Despite the grandness of the décor, the atmosphere is far from stuffy. We received a warm welcome on arrival and were invited to try one of The Muddler’s signature cocktails.

To give you a flavour, some eye-catching entries included the ‘Black & Gold’ – Altos Reposado muddled with blackberry and basil and embellished with a golden leaf alongside the ‘Muddler Spritz’ – a refreshing livener made with Strawberry Aperol, elderflower and Sauvignon Blanc.

Whilst this all sounded marvellous, we swerved the cocktails in favour of a lovely bottle of Malbec. Now talk about Wet Jan.

The food selection looked equally inviting. The restaurant has drawn upon some of the region’s top Pan-Asian chefs who have created an imaginative menu boasting various little arty inflections. Diners can pair small plates with more substantial mains or choose to go big with a tapas-style feast. Naturally, we did the latter.

Three dishes apiece were advised and we were soon tucking in to wasabi prawns, chargrilled beef robatta and panko chicken katsu – done very well here slathered in sweet soy and spicy mayo. Other highlights included the salmon teriyaki, prawn tempura and Pork Sui Mai – steamed pork dumplings with dipping sauce which proved arguably the dish of the day.

All dishes were very neatly presented, garnished with a tangle of Asian side salad. The team at The Muddler aspire to create dishes which could be termed ‘Food Art’ and our experience certainly lived up to this mantle.

It’s also worth noting that The Muddler has an epic sushi menu with a choice of platters available. Many are served with a swoosh of dry ice – a theatrical touch (quite apt given the restaurant’s location) which really adds a sense of spectacle. I fully expect The Muddler to slot seamlessly in to Newcastle’s dining scene. Following a soft launch pre-Christmas, its winning offering of fusion food and prime city centre setting is sure to make this a new favourite for 2019 and beyond.

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